Ya Ha Crag’s First Multi-pitch

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Ya Ha Crag now has a muti-pitch route! It is now the furthest east climb to date, and this section of cliff is a new area – Red Deer Wall. The climb starts with a short “access pitch” to gain a comfortable ledge. Depending on your stamina and/or tolerance for rope drag, there are multiple options for linking that make this a two pitch climb. Otherwise, the route can be done in the three short pitches. The cruxes are generously bolted.

A small belay platform has been built on the ledge; however, there will always be the potential for loose rock, so be cautious when walking on the ledge.


Unstoppability 5.10c . . . 2 pitches

Pitch 0.5: (ledge access pitch) 5.10a . . . 3 bolts, 8 m

Stand on the block to gain a high first foot, then make your way up the awkward corner onto the ledge. There is an optional single bolt belay on the back wall. This access pitch can linked with Pitch 1, but be aware of potential rope drag and rockfall with the rope running across the ledge. Alternatively, from this ledge Pitch 1 and 2 above can be linked into one 30 m long pitch.

Pitch 1: 5.10c . . . 6 bolts, 13 m

Climb the short arete before stepping out left for a few traversing moves up to the large flake. Finish with some tricky face climbing to the anchor (semi-hanging belay).

Pitch 2: 5.10c . . . 10 bolts, 17 m

Fun featured slab leads straight up to an overlap. Pull over it, then climb steps and edges to the left of the corner, eventually meeting it. Step right out onto the bulge and finish on stellar solid blocks to the final large belay ledge. Anchors are on the back wall.

Descent: Descend the route in two rappels, utilizing either the Pitch 1 anchor or the single bolt and quick link located on the access ledge (left of the small arete where Pitch 1 begins).

FA/RD: Adam Matias & Deryn Blakley, Aug 2025.

2 responses to “Ya Ha Crag’s First Multi-pitch”

  1. BIG lenny Avatar
    BIG lenny

    We climbed it in two pitches. Was enjoyable to initially climb to the ledge and then do the top two pitches in one go. A wide variety of styles on this route. Quite the challenge but not overly sandbagged either. One the most exposed routes at the crag.

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    1. Deryn Blakley Avatar

      Glad you liked it!

      Like

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